Water Heater FAQs for Homeowners

Q: How long do water heaters usually last? 
A: Most traditional tank-style water heaters last about 8 to 12 years on averagebaaqmd.gov. Lifespan can vary based on factors like water quality (Phoenix’s hard water can shorten it), usage, and maintenance. If you have a water softener, that can help reduce mineral buildup and sometimes extend the tank’s life a bit. Tankless water heaters tend to last longer, often 15-20 years, since they don’t store water that can rust them out – but their lifespan also depends on maintenance (they too can suffer from scale buildup). It’s a good idea to check your water heater’s manufacture date (often encoded in the serial number) – if it’s pushing 10+ years and especially if it’s showing any issues, start considering a replacement plan. Better to replace proactively than to come home to a flooded floor from a failed tank. 

Q: What are signs my water heater is failing? 
A: There are a few telltale warning signs: lack of hot water or a reduction in the hot water volume (if you notice your showers getting shorter and the hot water runs out faster, the tank could be losing capacity due to sediment). Water temperature variability – if it’s sometimes hot, sometimes lukewarm – can indicate a failing heating element or thermostat in electric units, or burner issues in gas units. Discolored or rusty water coming from your hot tap is a red flag; it often means the tank is corroding internally and rust is leaching into the waterenergystar.gov. Any leaks or moisture around the tank are a serious sign – even a small puddle or occasional drip means the inner tank might be compromised or a fitting is failing. Noises, like loud popping or rumbling when the burner is on, usually mean sediment buildup at the bottom of the tank; the sediment causes hot pockets and noise – it’s not an immediate failure sign, but heavy sediment can overheat and damage the tank bottom. And of course, age – if it’s over 10 years and doing any of the above, it’s likely near end of life. 

Q: Repair or replace – what’s the better option for a water heater? 
A: It depends on the issue and the heater’s age. For relatively young units (under ~6-8 years), many problems can be repaired: heating elements and thermostats (in electric heaters) or gas valves and pilot assemblies (in gas heaters) can be replaced at moderate cost. A leaking pressure relief valve or a faulty thermocouple on a gas heater are also fixable issues. However, if the tank itself is leaking, that’s not repairable – a new water heater is needed in that case. If your heater is already 10+ years old, even a moderate repair might not be worth it; the unit is nearing the end of its life, and it could be more cost-effective to put that money toward a new, more efficient model. Also consider performance: if your household has grown or your hot water needs have increased beyond the tank’s capacity, “repairing” might not solve cold shower issues – an upgrade to a larger or tankless unit might be the better long-term solution. In summary, for older units or any scenario where the tank is compromised, replacement is usually the best route. For newer units, weigh the repair cost – if it’s a fraction of replacement and the unit will likely serve you a number of additional years, repair can make sense. 

Q: What’s the difference between tankless and traditional water heaters – should I switch? 
A: Traditional tank water heaters store a large volume of water (30, 40, 50 gallons, etc.) and keep it hot 24/7 so it’s ready when you need it. Tankless (on-demand) water heaters heat water instantly as it flows through the unit, only when you call for it (like when you open a hot tap). The biggest advantages of tankless: they never “run out” of hot water (as long as the unit is properly sized for your demand) and they are more energy-efficient in that they don’t have standby heat loss from keeping a tank hot all day. This can translate to energy savings – often 20-30% lower water heating costs – especially for smaller households or if your usage is spread out. Tankless units also take up less space and last longer in many cases. However, they have higher upfront cost and sometimes require upgrading gas lines or electrical systems to support the unit’s output. With Phoenix’s hard water, a tankless should be paired with a water softener or regular descaling maintenance to avoid mineral buildup inside the heat exchanger. If your household uses a lot of hot water simultaneously (multiple showers, laundry, etc.), you need to size a tankless carefully or consider multiple units. In short: if continuous hot water and lower operating costs are appealing and you don’t mind the higher initial investment (and possible retrofit costs), tankless is worth considering. Otherwise, a high-efficiency tank heater with proper insulation and maybe a recirculation pump (for quick hot water to distant taps) can also serve well. 

Q: Are there energy-efficient water heater options or upgrades I should know about? 
A: Yes, water heating technology has improved. For tank heaters, look for high-efficiency models – for example, condensing gas water heaters or heat pump (hybrid) electric water heaters. A condensing gas heater has a secondary heat exchanger to reclaim heat from exhaust gases, making it more efficient than a standard gas model. A heat pump water heater uses electricity differently: it essentially works like an AC in reverse, extracting heat from the air to heat the water, which can use 60% less energy than standard electric heating elements. Heat pump units work well in warm climates like Arizona, and as a bonus, they dehumidify and slightly cool the space around them (often nice for garages). There are also solar water heaters – in Phoenix, the abundant sun can preheat water with rooftop solar collectors and greatly reduce gas or electric use, though these systems have a higher complexity. Additionally, simple upgrades like adding a water heater blanket (for older, less insulated tanks) can reduce standby losses, and installing low-flow fixtures will conserve hot water so your heater doesn’t work as hard. Don’t forget maintenance for efficiency: draining a few gallons from the tank a couple of times a year to flush out sediment can help a tank heater run at its best. And of course, if your heater is nearing the end of its life, replacing it proactively with an Energy Star rated model can ensure you’re getting the most hot water for your energy dollar. 
By Jean Morales October 13, 2025
A professional-grade drain auger used by plumbers can cut through tough clogs safely, unlike harsh chemicals. Professional tools like this ensure thorough clearing while protecting your pipes from damage. Always consider calling a plumber for stubborn clogs to avoid pipe damage and recurring issues. Q: My sink/shower drain is slow or clogged – what are my options to clear it? A: First, try simple methods: a plunger can often dislodge minor clogs (just make sure to cover any overflow openings and get a good seal). For sinks, removing and cleaning the stopper or trap (the U-shaped pipe under the sink) can clear localized clogs like hair or debris stuck near the top. If that doesn’t work, a homeowner-safe tool is a handheld drain snake or barbed plastic drain stick for sinks and tub drains – these can pull out hair clumps especially. Avoid using standard dish detergents or hot water for grease clogs; sometimes very hot water can help flush a grease clog, but be cautious. If these don’t resolve it, it might be time to call a professional plumber who can use an electromechanical drain auger (snake) to cut through the clog, or perform a hydro-jetting if it’s a severe blockage in a main line. Professionals also have inspection cameras to see what’s causing the trouble. Tip: If multiple fixtures are backed up at once (say, toilet and shower together), that points to a main sewer line clog – in that case, skip the DIY and call a plumber right away. Q: Is it safe to use chemical drain cleaners? A: Be very careful with chemical drain cleaners. The common over-the-counter drain clearing liquids (with sodium hydroxide or sulfuric acid) can sometimes eat through a minor clog, but they carry risks. They are highly corrosive – not only to the gunk in the pipe, but also potentially to your pipes themselves. Chemical cleaners can damage PVC plastic pipes, and corrode older metal pipes (galvanized steel, copper, etc.)ajperri.com. In fact, if the drain is completely blocked, pouring a chemical cleaner can result in the caustic chemical just sitting in your pipe against the clog and pipe walls, which can “eat” the pipe materialajperri.com. They’re also dangerous to you – the chemicals can cause burns and produce harmful fumes. Plumbers often consider these products a quick but risky fix; if they don’t work, you end up with a pipe full of toxic liquid that someone (the plumber) has to deal with. Enzymatic drain cleaners (which use natural enzymes/bacteria) are safer but work slowly on organic buildup. In general, mechanical removal (plunging, snaking) is preferred. If you do use a chemical cleaner, use it sparingly and follow the directions exactly. And never mix different drain chemicals or pour them after other household cleaners – that could cause a dangerous reaction. Q: What causes drains to clog, and how can I prevent it? A: Common culprits for clogs: hair (in showers and bathroom sinks), grease and food scraps (in kitchen sinks), soap scum and hard water minerals (which build up in pipes over time), and for toilets, things like wipes or too much paper. In Arizona, our water is very hard – meaning it has lots of minerals – which can contribute to slower drains over the years as scale builds up inside pipes. To prevent clogs: Use drain strainers: Catch hair and debris before it goes down the drain. Simple mesh strainers in shower/tub drains and bathroom sinks can reduce hair clogs dramatically. Dispose of grease properly: Never pour cooking grease or oil down the sink. Let it cool and solidify, then throw it in the trash. Grease is a top cause of kitchen pipe clogs as it solidifies inside pipes. Watch what goes in the disposal: Avoid putting fibrous or starchy foods (potato peels, celery, coffee grounds) down the garbage disposal – they can create blockages. Run plenty of water if you use the disposal. Only flush appropriate items: Only human waste and toilet paper should be flushed. “Flushable” wipes are not truly safe for plumbing – they contribute to clogs. Hygiene products, paper towels, etc., belong in the trash. Regular maintenance: Occasionally flushing drains with hot water can help (for kitchen sinks, a kettle of boiling water can move along grease). Some people use a baking soda and vinegar treatment monthly as a mild, natural cleaner. If you have recurring issues, a professional drain cleaning once a year or so can preempt major clogs. Q: When should I call a plumber for a clogged drain? A: If your own efforts aren’t resolving it after a short time, it’s wise to call in a professional. Specifically, call a plumber if: multiple drains are backed up simultaneously (sign of a main line blockage), if one fixture is causing backup in another (for example, running the sink causes gurgling in the toilet – also a sewer line issue), or if foul sewage odors are coming from drains (could indicate a blockage or vent issue). Also, if water is coming up from a drain when you use another (like sewage backflow into a shower when the toilet is flushed), that’s an urgent sign of a main sewer clog – you’ll want a plumber with an auger or hydro-jet. Another time to call is if you dropped something valuable or important down the drain (like a wedding ring) – plumbers can often retrieve items using specialty tools or cameras. In general, don’t let a clog sit for days. A small clog can turn into a complete blockage if untreated, and standing water in pipes can lead to further complications. If basic methods fail, a plumber will solve the issue efficiently and help prevent damage to your plumbing system. Q: What is hydro-jetting and do I need it? A: Hydro-jetting is a professional drain cleaning method that uses high-pressure water streams to scour the inside of pipes. Think of a pressure washer hose snaked into your pipes, blasting away grease, scale, roots, and debris. It’s extremely effective for tough buildups, like years of grease in a kitchen line or invasive tree roots in a sewer line. Most homeowners won’t need hydro-jetting for routine clogs (a standard power snake usually suffices). However, if you have a persistent problem or an older sewer line that clogs frequently, hydro-jetting can restore the pipe to near-original diameter by thoroughly cleaning off the gunk and scale. It’s also a preferred method for commercial drains (like restaurant kitchen lines) due to heavy grease usage. One thing to note: hydro-jetting should be done by a trained professional after an inspection, because if a pipe is fragile or damaged, the high pressure could potentially worsen it. But in the right situation, hydro-jetting is a fantastic long-term solution to clear pipes and delay future clogs.
By Jean Morales October 2, 2025
High-Efficiency AC Systems – FAQs
By Jean Morales October 2, 2025
Attic Insulation & Home Performance – FAQs
By Jean Morales October 2, 2025
Proper attic insulation (like the blown-in cellulose shown above) is crucial for energy efficiency in hot climates. In Phoenix's climate, attics can reach extreme temperatures, so sealing and insulating the attic helps keep conditioned air from escaping. A well-insulated attic reduces the strain on your AC and can significantly lower energy bills. Q: What is a home energy audit, and why do I need one in Phoenix? A: A home energy audit is a comprehensive evaluation of how efficiently your home uses and retains energycallwaycool.com. In Phoenix’s extreme heat, small inefficiencies can lead to big spikes in cooling costs. An energy audit goes beyond a basic HVAC check – it examines insulation levels, duct leaks, window/door seals, and more to find where your cooled air might be escapingcallwaycool.com. The goal is to identify hidden energy leaks so you can fix them and save money on utilities. In fact, according to Arizona’s APS utility, a professional home energy checkup can save homeowners as much as 30% on energy bills while also improving indoor comfort and air qualityaps.com. Q: What does an energy audit involve? A: During a professional energy audit, a certified auditor will assess your home’s major systems and structural elements. This usually includes a blower door test (to measure how much air leaks out of your home), checking ductwork for leaks, inspecting attic insulation depth, evaluating appliance efficiency, and even using infrared cameras to spot hidden gapscallwaycool.comcallwaycool.com. For example, they might discover that your ducts have leaks (a common issue that forces your AC to work harder) or that your attic insulation isn’t up to recommended levels. In Arizona attics, experts often recommend insulation levels of about R-38 to R-60 for optimal performancekinginsulation.com. After the audit, you’ll get a detailed report with findings and recommended upgrades. Q: How can an energy audit save me money? A: An audit identifies specific improvements that make your home more efficient, which translates to lower utility bills. For instance, sealing a few large air leaks or adding insulation can prevent cooled air from escaping, so your AC runs less. Even minor gaps (around windows, doors, or in duct joints) can let expensive cooled air leak outcallwaycool.com. Over time, those leaks force your HVAC system to run longer cycles, driving up energy use. By fixing issues pinpointed in an audit, homeowners commonly see significant savings – often 5–30% reduction in energy bills, depending on how many improvements are madeaps.com. Plus, you’ll likely notice more even temperatures from room to room once leaks and insulation problems are resolved. Q: Are there rebates or programs in Maricopa County to help with energy efficiency upgrades? A: Yes, there are great local programs. Utility companies like APS and SRP offer rebates for energy audits and for many of the improvements identified. For example, APS’s Home Performance with ENERGY STAR® program provides discounted energy checkups and rebates for things like duct sealing, insulation upgrades, and high-efficiency AC unitsaps.comaps.com. There are also occasional state or city incentives (and federal tax credits) for upgrades that save energy, such as adding insulation or installing smart thermostats. It’s wise to ask your energy auditor or check utility websites for the latest rebates – you could get hundreds or even thousands of dollars back for making your home more efficient. Q: What are the top energy efficiency fixes for Phoenix homes? A: Every home is different, but some fixes commonly deliver big benefits in the Phoenix area’s climate: